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Bella Coola SymphonyHenry Hall saw these peaks in the thirties, as did the Don Mundays. In the course of describing their ascents of Monarch Mountain and several summits near the Bella Coola Valley, these early visitors to the area made reference to the vast array of mountains lying beyond. Not until 1951, however did John Dudra discover, from the summit of Mount Saugstad, the lake that was to provide access to the heart of the region. Meanwhile, in 1952, two American groups came to grips with the rivers and dense vegetation which render access on foot difficult at best. One crossed the Atnarko and Talchako Rivers near Stuie, and made a few ascents along the north side of Nordschow Creek; they vowed never to return. The other group was from California. They climbed two major peaks on the south side of the Bella Coola Valley, but failed to penetrate to the head of Noomst Creek, where a number of excellent rock peaks could be seen. Rising to the challenge of the Noomst Peaks, this group returned in 1954. They finally reached the head of Noomst Creek, but only after a disheartening struggle in the next creek to the west, from which the crossed over when finally free of timber and brush. They made a number of fine ascents, and returned to the Bella Coola Valley via a still better route. The lure of Bella Coola peaks was beginning to prove irresistible to some, and the next year found us once again encamped at the head of Noomst Creek. For the first time we saw the huge icefield and glacier system to the south of Symphony Lake, the splendid mountains on its periphery, and the multitude of intervening rocky peaks, crags and ridges. One mountain, in particular, caught our attention, held us fascinated, and drew us on. All winter this beautiful pyramid of ice glittered in memory. This was Snowside Mountain, and the quest for it evoked a singleness of purpose such as I had never before experienced.
1956After a year of planning, an arduous approach was made up the Noeick River. Several days of exploratory climbing culminated on the summit of Snowside Mountain, and from this long sought vantage point Kipling's words echoed in our thoughts-"something hidden ... something lost behind the ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go!"For, from the summit of magnificent Snowside, range upon range extended to the horizon. Since the dawn of mankind these shining mountains had lain waiting-untrodden, unvisited, unknown. A mere handful of summits had been reached. The occasional trapper, Indian, or prospector of years gone by had traveled the valleys and passed into eternity, leaving behind nothing but legend and rumour. To us the region offered the challenge of virgin wilderness.
1957The following year we planned to approach Symphony Lake from the east, via the Talchako River. While this route would be longer than the approaches from the west, we hoped to make better time because of the more drier and open terrain which is found toward the interior. Local inquiry led to our abandoning the Talchako River in favor of a recently cut trail which started near Anahim Lake. Merle Alley, George Sessions, and I journeyed past Kappan Lake, south of Mount Kappan, and up and over a massive bald-topped uplift. On the Southwest side of this we descended into timber, and found that once again we were on the trail. Well-graded switchbacks led us down to the Atnarko River, and into Ralph Edwards' homestead on Lonesome Lake. Leaving a trail-weary comrade at the Edwards place, two of us continued on up the switchbacks on the west side of the Atnarko River. Topping out on the Junker Lakes plateau, we finally left the trail, which led north from there toward Canada's highest waterfall, Hunlen Falls.Heading for timberline, we soon were traversing along the slope above Junker Lakes. We passed below Peak 8250-"The Dome", or "Walker's Dome", as Edwards calls it. He had climbed it some years back. Traveling through delightfully open country, we admired the rugged peaks and glaciers on the west side of the Talchako River. One of these peaks was particularly attractive. We were to climb it seven years later, and name it Horribilis Mountain in honor of the bears upon whose domain we were intruding. Passing south through Edwards' "Sunshine Valley" , we followed the valley to its head, and around through a low divide which drains to the Talchako River opposite the confluence of Jacobsen Creek. Dropping down through open timber, we came out onto a rocky clearing for our first good view of the river we planned to cross. Elation over the easy going was suddenly gone, and in its place a sense of frustration, and a recognition that we were at that moment as close to Symphony Lake as we were going to be that year. Three thousand feet below us the Talchako River writhed like a muddy serpent, a sinuous torrent which offered no hope of a ford, too wide to be spanned by a tree, and too near its glacial source to be bridged by a log jam. At this moment my companion, too, sensed the immensity of this land, its wilderness, its rugged beauty. Would the same scenery have evoked such feeling had there been a road winding through the valley bottom, the air reverberating with the roar of chain saws? We returned to the Atnarko via a pass several miles south of Walker's Dome. Upon arriving at Edwards' home, we opined that Symphony Lake was too distant to be satisfactorily approached by this route. The old gentleman smiled knowingly, and recollected that he had told us as much. He gave us a ride down Lonesome Lake the next day, and sent us on our way with detailed instructions for following his trail down the Atnarko River. The warm hospitality of Ralph and Ethel Edwards stands out as one of the rewarding memories of this year.
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